Arena di Verona
Piazza Brą, Verona - August 1994.
(Photo by RR, 1994)
The flags are flying for tonight's performance.
The Romans envisioned neither the telephone
nor the battle betwen tenors and sopranos.
An audience for these events can number 20,000.
Verona has many claims to fame: home of the star crossed lovers, Romeo &
Juliet, a strategic outpost for Imperial Rome, a major transportation hub
today. It has been ruled by Rome, Venice, and various despots. The
reminders are still there today.
The amphitheater is host to an opera festival each July and August.
This structure dates from the 1st century A.D. When you visit the restroom
between acts, you will be reminded of this.
Any Italian singer worth his or her salt has performed at the Arena.
The roster dates back to 1913, and includes Pinza, Del Monaco, Tebaldi, the
Pav, and Domingo.
The quality of performance can range from indifferent to grand,
depending upon what kind of a cast you are hearing. When you buy a ticket,
you are taking a slight chance in this respect, but you are taking no chance
at all on a bona fide existential experience. Even without first rate
singers, opera here is unlike anywhere else.
In the summer of 1994, we were visiting friends in Verona. They
had some important connections at the Arena, and arranged for us to be
admitted to two performances. We were ushered in at the very last moment by
the Coordinatore dei Complessi Artistici himself and shown to press seats.
We had fully expected to occupy the "granite" bleachers up in the sky, but
when we were directed through the red velvet curtains, we realized we were
down front in the very center of the Arena. Since we were rushed in, I had
no chance to fully take in the scope of the Arena. It was only after we
were seated that I turned around and saw the sea of humanity that had been
there for the past several hours - an overwhelming sight.
The opera (Otello) had not even begun, but the sense of anticipation
and eagerness was quite evident. When the music began (the orchestra
is much larger than most theaters can dream of), we watched brilliant
lighting effects and saw Otello's ship sail from way out at sea to the
dock at Cypress. Acoustics - not a problem - everything is audible without
amplification.
At the end of the performance, the audience was reminded not to throw
their cushions from the top of the "granite' seats, possibly injuring those
below in the expensive seats.
If you are in Verona at another time of year, you can still tour the
Arena and get some idea of what goes on there. Other attractions in Verona
are churches, castles, museums, and the beautiful city itself. Not the least
of the attractions are the fine restaurants. Up the road is the village of Soave
where you can get your 10 gallon jugs filled from pumps at the cooperative
winery. The lake district is nearby, and beyond that the Alps.
Verona is usually allotted a day or two on the typical tour, but deserves
much more time. We hope you will have a chance to go there, and if opera
is your thing, you MUST see that.
RR & NR (Revised 2/24/99)
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